Day 28
As I was low on water and wasn’t sleeping well, I rose early. It was still dark when I got on trail and stars sprinkled the sky. I used my headlamp until the world became a light grey. Rocky hillsides towered to the east and shaded the trail past sunrise. After two hours of hiking, I reached the rainwater collector. The metal structure had a spigot in the side for water access and an overflow trough for wildlife. While there, I made coffee and ate a snack.
Once again the terrain was familiar to me. Prior to the AT, as my shakedown hike, I backpacked Passages 16 & 17 northbound. I was accompanied by Will (the same guy who started with me this trip). Those were my first steps on the AZT. Along the way, I chatted with a couple thru hikers and became interested in thru hiking the trail one day.

It was a scenic descent from the collector, winding past a cool rock tower. In March, there were huge patches of California poppies, not this time of year. Shortly after I ate lunch, a sign marked the trail low point, 1,646 ft. (The high point was 9,139 ft., on the Kaibab Plateau.) Then the trail turned east and paralleled the Gila River. I felt thirsty and accessed it three times for water, each time I startled cows.

Over the course of the day, I listened to two Backpacker Radio episodes. It’s kinda crazy that I haven’t seen a thru hiker since Pine, though apparently I am two weeks ahead of the bubble. I did flush a lot quail and saw two roadrunners! When I pitched my tent I was grumpy because I had a bad headache. I worried that I couldn’t eat my peanut noodles. Instead, eating dinner helped my head.
Day 29
All morning the trail roughly paralleled the Gila River, with ups, downs, and long curves away. Early on, I heard something big moving down the hillside. It was a javelina! We spotted one another at the same time. It and a second one took off before I could snap a picture.
Arizona has 13 species of Rattlesnake, more than any other state. The two I saw were Black Rattlesnakes. A handsome species for sure, but I wanted to see another variety. I kept thinking that as I walked along. The trail dipped to the river and went through two gates. Going through the second one, I heard a rattling noise to my right. It was a Western Diamond-backed Rattlesnake. Yay!! It was not happy to see me, it arched impressively and buzzed continuously. I didn’t want to stress it so I got a picture and moved on.

As if the day hadn’t been generous enough with creatures, soon after the rattlesnake I came upon a Mojave Desert Tortoise. Yay! I’d really wanted to see one. It was very calm, even when I got down right next to it. The tortoise simply blinked and examined me back. A short distance later there was a second one. It’s skin and shell seemed rougher than those of the first, perhaps younger?

I got water at a maintenance yard spigot, ate lunch at Florence-Kelvin TH, and then I was on trail new to me. Little did I know, my creature filled day had not ended. Only 1.5 miles from camp, I startled a group of 8+ javelinas, which darted in every direction, their fur quite bristly. Then I spotted another Western Diamond-backed Rattlesnake, extended to its full length. When I got close, it did not rattle, simply slithered off and only then did I notice that it had actually been on the trail.
Day 30
After several nights of sub-par sleep, I slept in. Dawn revealed a sky full of fluffy, white clouds. I captured my shadow portrait on a wash.

Now that I’ve accepted I need to drink more when it is in the high 90s, I aim to start the day, or any 10+ mile section, with three liters. Five miles along, I stopped at a wildlife tank to replace the liter I drank since camp. It’d been awhile since I’d seen one of the structures and I smiled as I scaled the fence. I gathered light green water from the corner opposite a bee swarm and used a stick to fish several struggling bees from the water.
The terrain was fairly flat all day so I made good time. In the late afternoon, I reached a rainwater collector, installed only last year. FarOut explained that a 420 sq. ft. steel apron catches the rain. Then the water is stored out of direct sunlight to prevent algae growth.

The last couple miles traveled through a neat cholla forest. The sun had dropped behind a hill so it was a perfect time for walking. I spotted at least three jackrabbits bounding amongst the vegetation. One great thing about hiking solo is making a small patch of clear-ish soil into a last-minute tent spot.
Day 31
The day’s first water stop was Beehive Well. On the right was a windmill and a giant, circular metal tank. When I peered over the lip, the water was too far down to reach, however, I’d seen a cattle yard on the area’s other side. It had an open gate with a half dozen cows inside. Their circular trough had a spigot with an attached float and it was trickling clear water. As the cows stared and bees buzzed around me, I gathered water from the flow.

For the most part, the trail stayed off roads today, though it dipped in & out of a lot of washes. My left foot twinged occasionally, I can’t wait to get my new shoes in Oracle! While on an ATV road, I spotted a Western Patch-nosed snake. It was really cute and let me take several pics; it never slithered away.

Shortly after noon, I went 1/4 mile off trail to visit Mountain View tank. It was fun. I climbed a ladder and used a plastic bucket on a string to retrieve water that otherwise was far below the tank’s lip. Though it had a green hue, it tasted fine once filtered. I sat in the tank’s shade to eat lunch.

There were a lot of cool saguaros today! It was my longest day in a while, 24 miles, and I did the last mile by moonlight. At the Tiger Mine TH, I came upon two parents pointing the comet out to their kids. I erected my tent at the edge of the parking lot and stared at the comet while I ate dinner. It sure had a long tail!
Day 32
My campsite was 1.6 miles from Hwy 77 and from there it was a 2.6 mile walk into Oracle. I had 45 minutes until the post office opened, but happily discovered an outlet in the public lobby. Then it turned out I had three, not two, boxes!! One was a 4-day resupply box.
The second box was my new Salomon shoes, a lovely purple color. I was irked because my SpeedCross 5’s lasted 800-1000 miles (once 1300, though that had ramifications). On my feet were worn out 6’s that lasted only 600 miles and sported holes in the sole and heel. Perhaps Salomon changed the sole’s rubber to a less durable version?

The third box was a surprise care package from Will. Even the packaging was perfectly perfect, with fun stickers and “Go! Emily Go!” written on the exterior. Inside were treats that I love, Cinnamon Churro Marshmallows that I’m excited to try, and handy dental pics plus Q-tips. What fun! Thanks Will!

I wandered down the street to The Patio Cafe. MJ mentioned it and there were GF options! I had a goat cheese & veggie quiche, potatoes, and limitless coffee (well, I stopped at four cups). Then I got a chocolate torte for dessert. Did I want whip cream and raspberry drizzle on top? Yes please! I was ready to sprint down the trail.
Instead I went to the library, where I used the WiFi to download a few items plus finished charging my battery pack. I chatted with an elderly man named Wayne, who was watching YouTube videos on boating in Mexico. He gave me a ride back to the Hwy 77 trail crossing. The trail provides! I hiked 8ish more miles.

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