Follow Strider's Rambles

Day 41

It was a chilly night, yet I stayed cozy beneath a wool blanket thrown atop my sleeping bag. I ate cold oats followed by hot instant coffee to warm my hands. After we packed up, Charlie & I biked to Gathering Grounds, a coffee shop. I’d hoped for one GF baked good option and was astonished to see an entire shelf of them! A choice was required. I got coffee and GF carrot cake, which was delicious. Then I got a pecan pie bar to go, wrapped in foil to better preserve it for the trail.

Mary gave us a ride to the trailhead where we got off yesterday. We didn’t go far before we accidentally made a wrong turn and went 2.8 miles round trip the wrong way. Ah well, furthest I’d gone astray the entire trail. As I hiked, I appreciated my newly laundered clothing, so soft after feeling like sandpaper for well over a week.

Charlie strummed on his guitar and I listened for a while before hiking on ahead. I ate lunch in the shade of a rock with a good view. Several miles later, I stopped at a wildlife trough for water. It was clear, cold, and tasted good. Charlie caught up and we discussed our stopping point. He poured water over his hoodie before we set out while I felt content with the low 90 degree temperature.

Over the next couple hours, I saw four javelina and a tarantula. Then the crown jewel, a strange lizard I saw before, but missed getting a picture of the first time because it startled me, looking like a severed snake. It was an Arizona Alligator lizard. It lay with its legs tight to its body and slithered off snake-like. Very cool.

We made camp at Down Under Tank, virtually a lake in size. After dinner together, I climbed in my tent; Charlie played and sang “Losing My Religion”. It’s his trail theme song.

Day 42

While I packed my gear, I watched a Great Blue Heron catch three fish in the lake tank. After each one, it flew to the shore to enjoy its meal. On trail, I was enraptured by the view and golden grass lit by the sun. With the journey’s end approaching, I felt a mix of sadness and achievement.

Even though I stopped twice to gather water, once to snack, and on a high point to eat lunch, the day’s miles flew by quickly. The last stop was surprising, an actual flowing creek with clear water and a shady bank. Charlie caught up and we hiked together to the Parker Canyon Lake trailhead. With no need to make miles, we had time for off trail exploration.

First, we took a dirt road, then when the lake appeared below we bushwhacked to the trail that clung to its edge. There was a small marina with an open camp store and we each got an ice cream bar. I felt idyllic eating mine while the lake glistened nearby. We continued along the trail to the Lakeview Campground. The camp host, a friendly guy named Clay, was driving a side-by-side with his two dogs. He pointed out the best campsites.

Charlie went for a swim while I journaled. Then we sat at our campsite picnic table, talking about relationships and reminiscing about our trail experiences. Oftentimes Charlie seems older than his 24 years, at least to me. He reads yoga books, listens to history podcasts, and follows the news. However, when he talks about love angst, he seems younger. Or when he pulls yet another canned good out of his food bag, though he did eat the last one tonight. (Leaving Patagonia, we weighed our bags: mine was 24.7 lbs, his over 41.)

Day 43

We got an ATV ride back to the trail, which was fabulous, especially as we had a big climb ahead. After an hour, Charlie stopped to eat breakfast. I felt super energized and kept on at a good pace. For a long time, the trail wove in and out of a dry creek bed. When it did begin to climb, it was partially shaded by trees. I met a NoBo hiker who’d recently finished the CDT and planned to hike the AZT for a few weeks. Next I passed a couple hunters. Finally I encountered two border control agents. They’d been discussing the trail and I clarified the route as it related to Tucson and Phoenix.

The ascent was nicely switch-backed and the last portion had obnoxious gnats which spurred me on. When I reached a windy ridge and sat to eat lunch, I saw with surprise that I’d completed the majority of it and was at 8,500 ft. Charlie caught up and we hiked the last three miles to Bathtub Spring. It was as described and had clear, cold water.

Afterwards, we got stellar views of Miller Peak and hiked through brilliant yellow aspens, the trail covered in fallen leaves. At the top of the climb, we left our packs and did the half mile, side trail to the 9,500 ft. peak. I was so glad we did, the view was jaw-dropping stunning. A warm wind ruffled my hoodie and I felt like I was on top of the world. The peak and its surrounding wilderness were an island and I could see the arid desert plain in 360 degrees below. I also saw Sierra Vista, the border wall, and other mountain islands. It was the third sky island that I had explored on the trail and I felt a desire to visit all 27.

Back on trail, we went another half mile and camped near the top of a ridge. Realizing I’d soon be sleeping indoors, I decided to cowboy camp, to have stars and trees directly over my head. Charlie and I smoked a half cigar that he found in the peak’s ammo box. We chatted and played a bat spotting game. Later, he strummed on his guitar and sang. A perfect final evening on trail!

Day 44

The wind blew hard through the night, yet I was sheltered by brush and stayed warm. That doesn’t mean I slept well, too many rustling noises, but when awake I enjoyed watching the branches sway above me.

We got an early start, excited to cover the 5.6 miles to the border. The trail proceeded down for the most part, though at first it wound along a ridge. At Montezuma Pass TH, we took a brief snack break. The border itself surprised me, it had a tiny section of tall metal fence, flanked on either side by simple barb wire. I expected an AZT specific monument, like at the northern terminus, however it was a US – Mexico boundary marker. Still, I had fun taking pictures and traveling back and forth between the two countries.

On our return to Montezuma Pass, we met Kieran and Kaira. Apparently they’d been two days behind me this entire time and greatly appreciated my water comments. They were the instigators of our noon shuttle, operated by Gabriella, who took the four of us all the way to Tucson for a very reasonable price. The young couple lived in Snowmass so we chatted about Colorado plus other long trails.

In Tucson, Charlie and I got dinner at a Turkish restaurant. Then we caught a Greyhound bus to Phoenix, where I got off and he continued onward.

What a trail! Right now I’d say it’s my favorite of the long trails that I have done. Factors include the variety of terrain, large amount of warmth and sunshine, so many reptile species, and great overall distance. I really fell in love with Arizona and plan to return.