Follow Strider's Rambles

November 8, 2024

The four of us left our Davenport hotel ~7 am and drove a short distance to drop off High Route’s Subaru with a local named Ian. We piled into his large van and he gave each of us a colorful Cradle Mountain buff. The countryside was lush green with sparkling blue lakes and lots of grazing sheep & cows. As we approached our destination, a rain started and grew steadily harder. David dropped us by the toilets and we put on rain jackets before walking to the Cradle Mountain Visitor Center.

Before being given our trekking tags, we had a vocal briefing from a friendly staff member followed by a video which emphasized the danger of hypothermia. Since I was shivering while still inside a warm building, I headed directly to the gift shop. There I purchased a pair of light weight rain pants and a rain jacket. The rain jacket I brought with me from Arizona  was a satisfactory wind layer on the AZT, but I knew it would wet out quickly as it lost much of its integrity on the PCT. Sonic also purchased a pair of rain pants; he & High Route bought gloves. Go Hobble-it for being fully prepared!

Shuttle buses left every 15 minutes so the four of us boarded the next one. It dropped us off at Ronny Creek. We entered a small building, signed the log book, then set off into the rain. I was immediately grateful for my layers: sun hoodie, fleece, both rain jackets, leggings, rain pants. The new buff held my ball cap firmly in place while also protecting the lower half of my face. Sonic encouraged us onward with smiles and joyous proclamations. As we climbed past a series of short waterfalls, the rain let up long enough to get a few pictures.

We hiked up to and alongside Crater Lake then continued climbing to Marions Lookout. From the point, we got fantastic views of Crater Lake and the much larger Dove Lake. After the lookout, the trail wound along an exposed plateau, via boardwalks topped with chicken wire intermixed with rocky soil. It’d been windy all along, but on the plateau there was nothing to block the wind’s force. The rain gave way to tiny stinging hail. Luckily, it was intermittent, providing time to take pictures, get in a 360 view, and dry off in the breeze. There were even a few brief patches of sunshine!

Kitchen hut, halfway along the day’s route, was a two-level emergency hut, near the turnoff to climb Cradle Mountain. We ate lunch inside the hut. I began to shiver, due to damp feet, so I swapped my fleece layer for my puffy.  Once we got underway, my toes warmed quickly. We skipped the mountain side trail; the peak was socked in with clouds. I was glad for the frozen precipitation vs the rain, it was less wet. The weather remained variable and we enjoyed the dry patches, catching views of Benson Peak and Barn Bluff. For a bit, there were stubby palm-like trees that reminded me of vegetation I saw on the trek to Mt. Kilimanjaro.

After 6.5 miles, we stopped for the night at Waterfall Hut, which was tucked into a valley with a great view of Barn Bluff. The hut had an entry hall with hooks & benches, 34 bunks spread across three rooms, and an outdoor sink under a covered porch. It also had a heated dining room with four huge tables, benches, and shelving. Elevated walkways led to an enclosed toilet building and four tent platforms. The four of us played O-Hell (a trick taking card game) before eating dinner. Later, Hobble-it and I chatted with a pleasant lady, Cathy, from Darwin but originally Canada, about homemade backpacking meals. Hobble-it and I slept inside while the guys tented.

November 9, 2024

I slept okay under my Thermarest quilt and the synthetic over-quilt that Hobble brought for my use. It’d have been better if I warmed my feet prior to bedtime. The guys survived the night, High Route in better spirits than Sonic, who had a puddle inside his tent. Luckily his bag and air mattress remained dry. We took our time eating breakfast and packing.

Though it rained off and on, the wind was perhaps a third of yesterday, making for pleasant hiking. We took the side trail to Lake Will. On a good day, Barn Bluff would have been visible beyond the lake; it remained hidden by clouds. However, we found a sandy beach to sit on for a snack break. After we returned to the main trail, there were a lot more of the stubby palms, called Pandani, which are actually in the heath family.

We reached Windermere Hut at noon. A ranger was mopping the entry area and greeted us warmly. Her name was Wombat, a trail name she picked up on the PCT last year. The hut was built anew in 2022 so it had the same facilities as the last one. A fabulous spot for 34 trekkers to spend the afternoon, it being a long distance to the next hut.

High Route taught Hobble-it and I a trick-taking card game named 500. We played until she went to nap. Then an older couple named Alison & Simon taught us a two-player version. Alison and I co-played the third round and won against Simon. By then Sonic had awoken from his nap so I shared several highlights that I picked up from the Overland Track guide book, which I have been carrying. After dinner, the four of us played O-Hell. High Route is a card shark!

While brushing my teeth, I saw a Tasmanian Pademelon near the outdoor sink. My first time seeing one and my first critter observed on the track! Later I could see it from my upper bunk so I pointed it out to Sonic and Hobble-it. High Route cowboy camped on the front porch, sheltered by a glass wall and roof. Cathy was bravely the only tent dweller.