Follow Strider's Rambles

Day 14

The miles flowed by all through the morning as the hiking was mainly flat with gentle ups and downs. The terrain was first old burn, stark burnt trunks among green undergrowth, then living forest. Water was plentiful, either crossing or paralleling the path. While in the burnt area, I met one man finishing a multi-year section hike of the CDT.

So far I’d been able to hop across the creeks on rocks. At the final crossing of Strawberry Creek, I removed my shoes and socks to ford the calf deep water. It felt great! I decided to eat lunch and let my feet continue their freedom. My shoes, socks, and tent (damp from morning condensation) dried quickly in the sun.

At 13 miles along, I turned onto the Spotted Bear alternate. Most thru-hikers use this CDT alternate as it cuts 15 miles while purportedly traveling through scenery similar to the official route. Four Lo and Goldie said it was easy to follow. Near the beginning it crossed the Middle Fork Flathead River, I rock hopped the first branch and forded the second. Then I was walking through woods, creatively crossing small creeks, and clambering over or under occasional downfall.

Eventually the trail switchbacked past a waterfall and a rocky escarpment. At the top, I passed a couple camped with a dog and six horses. I continued onward to a large meadow where I had intended to camp, but it was unappealing and buggy. After I ate dinner, I hiked three miles more to Dean Lake. It was my longest day yet, 23 miles, and I was tired. The location was beautiful, yet windy.

Day 15

It was a warm wind that buffeted my tent overnight, despite being at 7300 ft. Since Dean Lake was not far from Switchback pass, I was over its top in the early morning. A short way into the descent, I caught my first glimpse of the Chinese Wall, perhaps 18 miles distant.

At noon, I came upon a cabin, and nearby about 20 horses corralled by rope. After my third of what would ultimately be five water fords, I stopped for lunch, very happy to be eating cheese & crackers on a sunny day in the shade by a rushing creek. I noticed two thru-hikers attempting to cross the creek and soon met Fire Husband & Zookeeper. It was nice to chat. We’d seen one another at Luna’s and Zookeeper also had a Durston pack.

All afternoon the trail paralleled Spotted Bear River, with occasional stream crossings and no view. In the latter part, I was passed by the horse train: three guys riding and most of the horses loaded with baggage. They churned up future muddy areas so that I had to pick my way carefully or sink into mud. I was happy to leave the alternate and return to the CDT, immediately hiking along a hillside with views of forested hills and mountains.

The horse riders set up camp at my original destination, which turned out to be great because I went another couple miles and camped near the base of the Chinese Wall. It was awe inspiring, a rocky escarpment that climbs hundreds of feet and extends for 12 miles.

Day 16

For six miles, I hiked along the base of the Chinese Wall. It was stunning! I kept stopping to take a picture or examine the massive wall of rock. I thought how much my dad would enjoy it. I was also intrigued by the grassy green bench about half way up and what it would be like to sit upon it and look down.

There was this cute marmot family near the wall. Marmots and gophers loved the area.

After an unnamed pass with a cool rock slab that marked the end of the wall walk, the trail was a meander through pleasant woods and alongside streams and rivers. I encountered several backpacking groups and a couple with horses. In the end, I was back in old burn territory, there’s so much of it in The Bob! On the bright side, most of it is recovering well.

In the late afternoon I saw a cute garter snake and was startled by a grouse with two younglings. The mom and one baby flew into a tree. I crossed an impressive bridge over the West Fork Sun River. Lucky me, I got two bridges today! Then I dry camped two miles north of the junction to Benchmark Wilderness Ranch. There were no mosquitos! It was another 23 mile day and I felt weary.

Day 17

Overnight there was an intermittent, light rain. Now that I have my hiking poles set to the appropriate height, my tent fares well in wet weather. Warned of rain all day, I prepared by putting all my non-worn layers, my electronics, and anything else I wanted dry, in my bear canister. Per usual, my sleeping bag went in a trash compactor bag at the bottom of my pack.

When I got on trail, there were large bear tracks, without claw impressions, likely a black bear. I enjoyed seeing them, though they soon disappeared. After five miles hiking, I exited the Bob Marshall Wilderness.

It was not a fun day, yet I managed 24.5 miles in the rain. The chill and lack of desire to stop made my pace faster than usual. Plus stream crossings and trail puddles became a breeze when I could wade through in already soaked pants, socks, and shoes. I made camp at the north end of a meadow, near a creek.

My sleeping bag was a little damp, however it still made a cozy nest inside my tent once I put on my dry layers. Also, impressively, my rain jacket held; my sun hoodie and fleece were only wet at the sleeves and lower edge. I ate dinner in my tent, which I try not to do in bear country, but I was over being wet. And I put all my food in my bear canister for overnight storage. Before bed, I treated myself to an Andor episode.

Day 18

Last night I got a Garmin weather forecast, which said the rain would stop at 4 am with a partly sunny day to follow. It turned out to be spot on. For once, I slept in until 7 am. Then I was slow to pack and dress my lower half in wet items. A late start, however I planned on a lower mileage day with lots of elevation gain.

The morning was like the past couple days, paralleling and crossing rivers and streams. In the afternoon I got to the good stuff, long climbs up hillsides followed by ridge walks. I’ll always take ridge walks over valley walks, except in thunderstorm conditions. On the third ridge, I looked down into the shimmering blue waters of Bighorn Lake.

In the early evening, I arrived at a lake where I planned to get water and found it dry, counter to the FarOut comments. I began to worry; the next source was 12 miles away. There was a man camped on the shore so I chatted with him. He was a Swiss CDT hiker, going northbound (skipped Colorado and will go back after the border). He told me to walk up the dry creek bed prior to the lake and I’d find great water. There was indeed flowing water. I gathered two liters, ate dinner, and started cold soaking breakfast.

On my way back from the water, I came across a large jackrabbit, brown with white hind legs. I got a neat picture of it leaping. Instead of camping at the dry lake, I hiked another 1.4 miles to the top of the adjacent ridge and set up my tent. I’d ascended 5,000 feet over my 19 mile day.

Day 19

I dreamed about food, eggs the only item I could recall on waking. Which made sense, they were mentioned yesterday in my audiobook and sounded delicious. My goal is to eat an omelette while in town.

Mid-morning, I found a bunch of flat rocks on a hillside and stopped for a solar panel/ snack break. A voice startled me, I met Mamacita and Bugs Bunny. They were fun to chat with and seemed like cool people. I ran into them a second time when I stopped at a spring for lunch. They were already there eating and made space for me. Mamacita is Swiss and Bugs Bunny lives in Alaska. They met on the PCT in 2023.

The terrain was a lot like yesterday, climbing up and down hills and traversing ridges. The spring was the only water source, though it was only six miles from it to Roger’s Pass. At the pass, I quickly got a hitch from a man transporting a couch on a trailer. We chatted for the 17 miles into Lincoln.

In town, I picked up my resupply box from the Blue Sky Motel. The desk clerk also gave me Wendy’s box. Then I walked over to the Wheel Inn Tavern where I camped in the backyard along with Mamacita and Bugs Bunny. I caught up with family and friends, got a shower at the campground down the road, and sorted my resupply. Town time flies by!