Follow Strider's Rambles

Day 74

From my stealth campsite, I walked 5.2 miles back to Steamboat Springs. Yes, I could probably have hitched from my spot, however I was over hitching and there was a morning bus to Denver that would drop me at Muddy Pass for only $5. Plus the adventure of it and another chance at hot coffee!

At Starbucks, I got a latte. Then I caught the free bus to the transit station. I’d only been there a couple minutes when Mamacita walked in. She’d spent a couple nights in town and felt better, if not 100%. She was headed to Granby to meetup with her tramily (it’s not on trail, but whatever, they’re doing their thing). We caught the Bustang bus and chatted until I got off at Muddy Pass.

The first nine miles were along the side of paved Highway 14. At least the traffic was intermittent and there were splashes of fall color off to the sides. There were also neat, mushroom like, rock groupings. The rest of the day was dirt road walking. The first four miles were windy without much scenery. Then the road crossed into the Arapaho National Forest and it was beautiful! Dark pines and light green & yellow aspens contrasted with a brilliant blue sky.

I spoke with a couple bow hunters and more drove by in a jeep. There were tons of camping spots, several claimed by vehicles and monstrous tents. I kept hiking until I hadn’t seen anyone for a while. After 22.7 miles, and at 10,800 ft., I camped beside a fire ring at the edge of a grassy meadow dotted with young pine trees. It was a long day and I was ready for an early bedtime.

Day 75

I had packed up and was pulling on the front tent stake when it started to sprinkle so I put my pack and self back inside to wait it out. It was a brief shower and afterwards the sun came out. I hung my tent between two pine trees while I made a snack bag and put on sunblock. Between the sun and a light breeze, my tent dried quickly. I set out in high spirits.

The dirt road took me up a ridge that rose over 11,000 ft. for several miles. At a junction, the CDT returned to being a trail and descended into a valley that contained a couple creeks. I’d been out of water for a couple miles so I stopped at the first good collection point. It was clear, delicious water. I made electrolytes and coffee then sat in the sun to drink and snack.

It was a long, mostly gradual climb out of the valley. My legs felt strong, but I felt nauseous and kinda off. I didn’t eat lunch, instead I snacked every so often on apricot pistachio energy bites, it was all my body could handle. Near the top of the climb, I chatted with two bow hunters from Nebraska who asked me a lot of CDT questions. Next I raced across a series of ridges in front of impending dark clouds. I made it to pine tree shelter and waited out a brief rain storm.

There were two miles of intense blow downs. While crossing a log pile, a branch snapped and I fell awkwardly. Luckily, my body was unscathed other than a scraped right thigh. A branch tore a hole in my pack cover, which I fixed with duct tape. Then the trail circled around Haystack Mountain. There was a great campsite 0.3 miles past the adjoining saddle. As I set up my tent, it started to sprinkle. I got inside and was able to eat dinner. Rain fell for hours, accompanied at first by an impressive thunder & lightning storm.

Day 76

Despite puddles at either end of the tent, my sleep gear and I stayed dry atop my air mattress island. Likewise I’d shoved all other gear inside my pack, which I wrapped in its cover. Hence, the only wet items were my tent and Thermarest; not bad at all! Once packed, I mainly ascended for 3.7 miles to the summit of Parkview Mountain, a 12,300 ft. peak. There was a chill breeze so I didn’t linger up top.

The descent began with exposed switchbacks, I huddled low on one turn to layer up. I had cell service so I texted my family and discovered that my friends Noel & Mike were going to meet me in Grand Lake. Yay, I was excited by the news! Soon the trail reached tree level and I stopped to dry gear in the breeze. When I resumed the descent, it passed through forest and alongside cool, lumpy rock piles.

I crossed over paved Hwy 125 then through an area of prolific creeks and old burn area. For an hour or so, the sun shone down with its full strength. There was another climb to Illinois Pass and the sky clouded over. Shortly past the top, I came upon a woman in a tent. She’d recently finished a multi-year PCT hike and decided to sample a CDT section. I continued on through a brief, light rainfall and past two groups of bow hunters.

As I neared Bowen Pass, I debated whether I had time to go over. A desire to make miles in case my friends arrive tomorrow propelled me onward, though there was a nasty looking storm approaching behind me. Dusk and dark sky left the trail a thin line that I could just barely see as I ran down the other side. Hail began to fall and I ducked under a huge tree to dig out my headlamp. I ran maybe 0.2 miles more and found a flat spot amidst trees where I hurriedly erected my tent. It was a relief to climb inside, eat dinner, and get cozy in my sleeping bag.

Day 77

It was a chilly morning, though sunny with blue skies. I had 15 miles to hike to town and most of it downhill. A lot of hunters were about, pairs being the preferred configuration. After 5ish miles, I entered Rocky Mountain National Park. At first the park trail wound across a serene meadow, however most of the CDT route was through a large burn area.

Noel texted that he, Mike, and Alexa would meet up with me the following morning. That meant I needed lodging for the night. On the outskirts of Grand Lake, I stopped at Shadowcliff Lodge. It used to be a hostel, but insurance changed on them and now you have to arrive as a group or find hikers willing to share a room. I thought it was worth checking. The front desk lady said a group of five was coming in. It turned out to be Mamacita, Stew, Steam Engine, Roadrunner, and the latter’s boyfriend, Matt. They were excited to see me and chose a room that had space for me too! I was happy both for the space and their company.

Matt drove us, minus Mamacita, to Miyauchi’s. It’s a local fast food restaurant that offers hikers a burger, fries, and soft serve cone for $10. The others got the deal and I got a cup of homemade Lemon Chiffon ice cream. It was delicious! Matt and Roadrunner drove to resupply, while Stew and I walked back to the lodge. For dinner, I made hot ramen.

It was Roadrunner’s birthday; hence why Matt had flown from Alaska to visit. Mamacita made brownies and served them with ice cream. We all sang happy birthday. It was pouring rain outside and we were all happy to be out of it. The lodge staff built a roaring fire in a circular indoor fireplace, surrounded by bench seating, and we roasted marshmallows. I soaked in the fire’s warmth. Stew played several songs on the piano. It was a nourishing evening.

Day 78

From my top bunk, I woke to the smell of hot coffee. I went downstairs to drink it and eat breakfast. I chatted with Mamacita and Stew, the two with whom I feel the most connection. Mamacita makes sure I am included and is a genuinely kind person. Stew is gregarious and full of stories. He’s also hard core, he sleeps under a tarp and knocks out big days with ease. While the others left early, he hung out until late morning to giving the drizzle time to clear.

Noel, Mike, and Alexa arrived at 9:45 am. I ran outside to hug and greet them. We took over a dining room table and played K2 and Clank!: Catacombs; both are push your luck board games. I won K2 just barely, verifying that I know when to push my luck outdoors? The others shared fun snacks and Noel gave me a half loaf of GF banana pecan bread baked by his wife, Christine. It was delicious!

We drove to a trailhead and hiked along the shore of Shadow Mountain Lake, eventually heading towards a Lookout Tower. We didn’t make it all the way to the tower before we turned around. The sun came out and turned the lake a brilliant blue. There were patches of orange and yellow fall colors. I got to catch up with each of my friends and the group as a whole. We hiked around eight miles.

For dinner I suggested a Caribbean restaurant, an odd yet exciting find in a tiny Colorado town. We all enjoyed our dinners, full of flavor, and the side of fried sweet plantains. Afterwards, my friends dropped me at the lodge and there were more hugs in goodbye. It was so good to see them and spend a nourishing, fun day together!